Extraordinary Lombardy
Brescia, city of the Opera
and the Mille Miglia
Texts and photos by Anna Maria Catano
Brescia, jewel city of a Lombardy that is still too little known.
Among extraordinary archaeological sites – from the Capitolium to the monumental complex of Santa Giulia – and monuments from more recent eras, such as the Teatro Grande or the Tosio Martinengo gallery.
Lots of history and a large program of events.
The Opera Festival has just ended, the annual occasion in which Brescia is transformed into an open-air stage. The Festival offers around fifty events and concerts, all with free participation, which this year, in its thirteenth edition, celebrated the centenary of Giacomo Puccini and the 120 years since the premiere of Madame Butterfly which was staged at the Grande.
But Brescia is also the city of the Mille Miglia, whose first, legendary edition dates back to 1927. There are as many as 400 vintage cars competing in the traditional race “The most beautiful in the world”. The fascinating cars built between 1927 and 1957 travel 2200 kilometers across the length and breadth of the Bel Paese in five stages. The departure is from Piazza Vittoria. The arrival is scheduled for Saturday 15 June, the awards will be held in Piazza Loggia. And a White Night will involve the entire city.
Again: Brescia is preparing on June 22nd to celebrate, after the Opera Festival, a second Music Festival with a rich program of concerts and spontaneous happenings.
Ancient Brixia, Roman Brescia, was located along the Via Gallica. Today the large area of the Capitolium, a UNESCO heritage site like the Santa Giulia complex, has been entirely recovered. And Winged Victory is its universal symbol. The Unesco Corridor, however, the direct connection between the two sites, connects the archaeological park to the complex of the monastery of San Salvatore-Santa Giulia, a pillar of the Lombard heritage. The “Jeweled Cross” of King Desiderio, set with gems, cameos and shiny stones is a shining example of this, as are the brightly colored Domus dell'Ortaglia found in the monastery gardens.
The thousand-year history of Brescia is soon narrated through its large squares just a few steps from each other.
Cathedral Square, dedicated to Pope Paul VI, a saint from Brescia, offers three symbolic buildings of the medieval city. The Duomo Vecchio, a rare Romanesque basilica with a circular plan, the Duomo Nuovo and the Broletto with the Torre del Pecol, the oldest public building.
Loggia Square it boasts the imprinting of the Serenissima and the contribution of Palladio and Sansovino.
And the Clock Tower, emblem of astronomy in 1546.
Finally the majestic Victoria Squareinaugurated in 1932, marks the triumph of the rationalist style, among the most beautiful works of the architect Piacentini.
Another jewel is the Ridotto of the Grand Theatreand, so called in homage to Napoleon Bonaparte, – who did not go to the inauguration, arousing the indignation of the people of Brescia – where you can sit even just to drink a coffee to admire the beautiful frescoes that cover the ceiling.
And the Tosio Martinengo collection, a triumph of Lombard-Venetian painting. The newly renovated rooms, with walls covered in colored velvet, create a particularly original atmosphere.
But Brescia is also gastronomy, nightlife and contemporaneity.
Any suggestions?
Lively restaurant: for serial gourmets.
Savio Osteria: where to taste the traditional dishes of Brescia cuisine.
Hotel Battisti 31: welcoming urban chic home.
Docks area: design or vintage you can buy everything. Inside there is a food area (excellent brunch!) and a boutique hotel.
Just outside the city: in Cellatica to visit Zani Foundationhouse museum and its spectacular garden: more than 1200 precious works of art.
And lots of bubbles in Franciacorta al Rocol of Ome.
For more information:
www.visitbrescia.it
@visitbrescia