There is a village climbed on a hill not far from the sea that has become a privileged destination of gourmets throughout Italy for some time. It is Gabicce Montebetween the Marche and Romagna, between the green of the Monte San Bartolo Natural Park and the blue of the Adriatic, and the people who made this geolocation operation are Allegra thunders of Romanoff, Stefano Bizzarri And Davide Di Fabiothe first two owners and the third chef of Dalla Gioconda, one of the most in Hype in Italy restaurants.
The place is magnificent, contemporary and nostalgic at the same time. A place born from the ashes of a Dancing Pizzeria of the 1950s and around which a widespread hotel has grown with comfortable rooms. “We fell in love with this place, its sunsets and the paths that lead from the hills to the beaches. Ours is a path, a journey that wants to demonstrate love for this land” explain Allagra and Stefano. Who are in love with that territory and want anyone to pass by there shares this passion.
But the center of the project is the restaurant, characterized by a languid and sustainable design, personally studied by Allegra and with the pink stones of the Furlo, the wood, the brass, the yellow and the blue of the horizons and the sea, the natural cooked of brioni, the grit. But the strong point is Di Fabio’s cuisine, a former DJ (the first pennies if he earned them like this, but perhaps it was not his way, fortunately) for years the favorite pupil of Massimo Bottura at the Osteria Franciscana, which has brought his inappunable technique here, especially in the sauces, his lightness, his deep culture, his precision in cooking. And also his idea of sustainability that made him conquer, in addition to the Michelin Red Star, also the green one, especially thanks to the fact that he is the first “plastic free” restaurant in Italy, as well as the use of zero kilometer raw materials and the Leed Golf certification for the building.
I ate sweetly hot evening, enjoying the red sunset on the hinterland as an aperitif. The beginning is already a declaration of intent: the menu is in fact contained on the cover of an old 33 laps decorated with a photo fifty with retouched colors. “From the Mona Dancing 3 edition”. There are the “New Releases” menu for 140 euros, the anthological menu “Hit Parade” (110), a card to be brown well, a 160 golden table that is a kind of chef’s table.
I galvanized between the various routes and I particularly appreciated the raw of curls in immappear sauce, the surprising roasted apricots with thyme and sea urchins (a truly brilliant dish), the grilled soul with the grill with acid and womb cream, the false cheese and pepper, a spaghettone sticked with pine nuts, colating of anchovies, juniper and pepper (for a pepper and pepper ( Romano like me a risky but in the end successful game), the paccheri with the sauce ??? Where the three question marks are used to explain that in the “sauce” there is no trace of tomato but instead there is an ingredient that is revealed only after the tasting (and I am at the game and I do not reveal the arcane). In the end, the most comfortable and interesting dish is the cumpier for the pasta and fish of the Adriatic, which draws inspiration from a Teramo dish all played on the number seven: like the Christian virtues: seven different types of pasta, seven legumes, seven types of fish. The dish, contravening the codes of the high cuisine, is of a copious portion and those who were not enough was also left the soup tuger semi -gredgered for a second (P) taste. So it should be the end of contemporary end: full of commitment and thought, but playful and satisfactory. So: Bingo!
In the meantime he has made himself dark, I look at the lights of the Riviera Romagnola shine
Uncertain on the horizon and I’m happy, the evening was fun. They bring me a pre -firm postcard that I can send to who I want. Greetings from the Mona Gioconda, greetings from Gabicce Monti, there is placed from the past. Or from the future.
